Revalidation of Diplomas (from 2017)
PPG – Concentration Area: Design, Art and Technology
André Ricardo do Nascimento
Recognition of Doctorate in Art Diploma: Production and Research, issued by the Facultat de Belles Artes de Sant Carles, de la Universitat Politècnica de València, Spain, 2015. Scholarship from the Coordination for the Improvement of Higher Education Personnel, CAPES, Brazil.
Advisor: Miguel Molina Alarcon
Shorthand is a neologism of its own created to reinforce the sound identity of the typewriter in our creative work. The term was coined to highlight the ability of the typewriter, based on its sound-generating structure, to access our memory by producing memories. When we say Taquigrafonías, we refer to the sound action generated by a typist, using the typewriter in a context of sound and artistic reflection, with the function of producing personal, collective, affective and historical memories.
For the development of this work we had as a general objective: to investigate the development of the typewriter, in different contexts, to update its use in a sound artistic environment. As specific objectives we seek: to understand how the typewriter was able to become a symbol of modernity; analyze the impact, after its creation, in the social imaginary, investigating how it was used in the production of visual and sound works. Finally, we propose the elaboration of a personal creative work, using the typewriter and the sound as central elements of the pieces. To achieve the established goals, we developed a transdisciplinary and applied methodology that favored a more complete approach on the importance, evolution and disuse of the typewriter in society. In our investigation, we used as a reference, previous research in sociology and economics, through the authors Boaventura Souza Santos and Ray Debraj, we also investigated how the typewriter influenced the entry of middle class women in office work, from reading texts by Chritopher Mantenga and Paul Robert. Also, from our methodology, we have deepened our work by probing the use of the typewriter in visual arts, cinema, sound art, music and new media. To this end, we work in collaboration with the research group of the Laboratório de Criaciones Intermedia (Universidad Politénica de Valencia), exploring works related to artistic vanguards, sound art and art and new media. An important aspect to highlight in our work was the realization of interviews with people of different professions and nationalities about their personal experiences and memories about the typewriter. We also elaborate a creative personal work. As a methodological strategy for our work, using the typewriter and sound as the main elements of each piece. As results obtained, we can highlight the understanding of the impact caused by the typewriter on society, as well as its influence on the structural change of work and collaboration in the restructuring of the cultural imaginary at the end of the 19th century. We consider the legacy we leave extremely important, due to our research work in the field of so-called Typewriter art. (“Typewriter art”). To build this legacy, we compiled a compilation with comments on the use of the typewriter in art, separating it by visual, sculptural, sound, musical and filmographic works, presented in a chronological scheme. As the last significant point to highlight in the results obtained, it is the personal creative work that uses the typewriter and the sound. At that moment, we present the elaboration of a series of pieces that are divided into three groups: shorthand exercises, restitution of historical avant-garde and sound actions or audio performances. These pieces were produced according to a research context of authors, composers and artists who related the internal experience, memory, territory and subjectivity, themes widely discussed in the chapter dedicated to personal creative production.
Ronaldo Salvador Vasques
Recognition of a Doctorate Diploma in Textile Engineering / Management and Design, issued by the School of Engineering at the University of Minho, Guimarães, Portugal, 2018. Scholarship from the Araucária Foundation to Support Scientific and Technological Development, FAADCT / PR, Brazil.
Advisor: Joana Luísa Ferreira Lourenço Cunha
Co-supervisor: Sandra de Cássia Araújo Pelegrini
The collections of textiles / clothing that are presented in museums generally lack information about the textile materials that compose them. In this sense, from the point of view of an approach that goes beyond history and clothing, the textiles belonging to the museum collections lack specific information, that is, generally, the exhibitions strive to present the clothing itself, in their shapes and volumes, without looking at the specificity of the textile surface design or its characteristics. The recognition of this fact attests and justifies the relevance of the present proposal, since the apprehension of the textile characteristics of production can offer precious information to visitors, researchers and students of design, through a more complete documentation. This work deals with the study of identification and analysis of textile materials present in 19th century garments.
Framed in the area of textile heritage, clothing and design, the research was carried out at the Alberto Sampaio Museum (MAS), in Portugal, and at the Imperial Museum (MI), in Brazil, investigating in the technical reserves of museums the 19th century garments in the its details of surface design, it should be noted that the fashion segment covers a wide dimension and, therefore, this alignment between textile and fashion is fundamental for research. It is important to mention that this research is also of paramount importance for teaching and training in design, guiding professionals in the area, and also the general public, in a more concise way, understanding how textile materials have been transformed over the course of this century. A more complete catalog was created with the details of the structure of the textile components of the analyzed pieces, divided into (A) Clothing, (B) Textile Materials and (C) Textile Surface Design, as a way to preserve the textile heritage, presented in the appendices of this thesis (Volume I and volume II).
(C) Textile Surface Design, as a way to preserve the textile heritage, presented in the appendices of this thesis (Volume I and volume II). The systematization of the applied methodologies led to the elaboration of a practical guide to identify and analyze textiles / clothing, which is also a relevant documentation, as it will safeguard the characterization of textiles / clothing present in museums, which is essential to know in detail the origins of textiles. and their stories and thus, with this catalog, preserve the textile heritage and contribute to the work in the technical reserves in the museology sector.
Aline Teixeira de Souza
Recognition of a Doctorate Diploma in Design, issued by the Faculty of Architecture of the University of Lisbon, Lisbon, Portugal, 2018. Scholarship from the Coordination for the Improvement of Higher Education Personnel, CAPES, Brazil.
Revalidation Date:17 de junho de 2019.
Advisor: Rita Assoreira Almendra
Co-supervisor: Lia Krucken
This work aimed to investigate the relationship established between material resources and design to generate value for local products and their origins, the object of study being the exploration of material and local know-how in the context of design teaching. The main motivation for carrying out this investigation is the Brazilian cultural and biological diversity, little explored in formal design education as a source of resources to generate value for products and origins. The first chapter is dedicated to the contextualization and framing of research. The second chapter determines the role of design in the valorization of territories and the place of materials in this process when considering them an effective part of territorial capital. The third chapter raises material-driven design process models, and design tools useful in the design process to generate local value. The fourth chapter presents empirical research. – Initially, it shows the results of an exploratory survey that raised brands and products that promote the association between materials and locations for the group of volunteers interviewed. Based on these data, the analysis of case studies that include initiatives with design guided by a specific material is presented.
The hypothesis is that in the scope of design to value territories, the operationalization of the process with the local constructive resources exploited creatively contributes to the development and consolidation of the environmental, social and economic spheres. The relationship with education, in this context, is fundamental because it cooperates with the awareness and specialization of professionals who work collaborating with the strengthening of territories and the construction of bases for development. Thus, to conclude the collection of new data, a diagnosis of the teaching of materials in design is presented, based on the analysis of the records of disciplines of Brazilian undergraduate and graduate courses and the survey with designers about their formative backgrounds. – In the fifth chapter, the development of the model built from the information collected is presented. The model consists of two disciplinary content blocks for undergraduate and graduate education.
The block aimed at graduation is formed by a teaching plan that includes the MAiTE Toolkit and was evaluated based on workshops held with sample and control groups and also by experts. The sixth chapter presents the research findings and recommendations for future research. The most relevant contribution of this investigation was the organization and development of tools that demonstrate potentials for the operational, practical and pedagogical levels in the field of design oriented by materials to promote territories.
Artemísia Lima Caldas
Recognition of a Doctorate Diploma in Textile Engineering / Management and Design, issued by the School of Engineering at the University of Minho, Guimarães, Portugal, 2017. Scholarship from the Coordination for the Improvement of Higher Education Personnel, CAPES, Brazil.
Revalidation Date: 18 de fevereiro de 2019.
Advisor: Miguel Ângelo Fernandes Carvalho
Discussing aging helps to dissolve prejudices about a natural process in the individual’s life cycle. With the increase in life expectancy, there is a concomitant increase in the number of people reaching old age with more independence, but the biological aging process contributes to the physical transformations that decrease the efficiency of the body’s organic and functional systems, pronouncing itself a gradual decrease in the ability to maintain a stable balance, making them dependent on others.
The general objective of this work was to analyze the anatomical form of the elderly woman dependent on care, quantifying her measurements, shape and posture, compensating for the asymmetries, considering her physical and psychological limitations for the lifting of comfort requirements and factors associated with functionality and handling of clothing. This investigation focused on a public that deserves attention on a product of everyday design, clothing, in which the ergonomics of clothing has the important mission of analyzing the body composition of the person in order to develop safer clothing and accessories, consisting of design attributes, considering comfort requirements.
This investigation had both qualitative and quantitative approaches, being carried out in stages, combining the two methods in some phases, with the need to carry out different experiments in the same study. An adapted experimental methodology was used, corresponding to anthropometric measurements of 79 elderly women over 65 years of age. Data collection was carried out in four institutions, located in two cities: Guimarães, in the north of Portugal, and Teresina, in the northeast of Brazil. For the experiments, it was necessary to establish parameters that served as a guide in the distribution of values adjusted to the average of most of the individual measures for the design of a block of basic molds adapted to the pattern of the current anatomical posture of the users’ body. The clothing developed was adequate to meet the needs of the elderly, in accordance with some functional factors for the condition of care dependence, in which favorable handling by the caregiver and greater comfort for the user stood out.
The validation of the developed prototypes and the success of this investigation were supported by the satisfactory results of the participants’ responses, as well as in the design details of the clothing and accessories, especially by the development of a new flexible button, aiming at the comfort and well-being of the users and good handling by their caregivers.
Humberto Pinheiro Lopes
Recognition of a Doctorate Diploma in Contemporary Studies, issued by the Institute for Interdisciplinary Research at the University of Coimbra, Coimbra, Portugal, 2017.
Revalidation Date: 18 de fevereiro de 2019.
Advisor: António Manuel Antunes Rafael Amaro
The practice of copies comprises a series of social and market-related processes, covering the development, manufacture, distribution and marketing of products of a material and immaterial nature. Such practice, in the social sphere, is known by different denominations: counterfeiting, counterfeiting, imitation, plagiarism, piracy, replication, among others. This terminology includes different ways of looking at the practice, sometimes approving its processes, sometimes censoring it with measures supported, including, by law.
Since the Ancient Age and, above all, in the Middle Ages, a censorship referring to objects that only had access to the nobility was administered before a position of socially dominant groups in sustaining exclusivity. This maintained status for these groups, corroborating social stability without significant changes. Although this circumstance is not decisive for recognizing the social dynamics that distinguish contemporary dissemination of copies and their censorship, the bases were being formed for intellectual (and industrial) property legislation to thrive in the capitalist world. Such legislation gradually demonstrates its favorable inclination to maintain the privileges of large corporations that concentrate wealth around the world today.
The market and the creative industry, together with the fashion industry, embody and support neoliberal policies that establish measures to strengthen the laws that protect the property of intellectual work and intangible goods, by ratifying the place of products considered as original in perspectives that include a wide cultural, economic, educational and social sphere. The fashion industry, made up of companies that deal with a series of sectors linked to the textile, clothing, entertainment, beauty and cosmetics chain, emerges as one of the forces that characterize the consolidation of the differences between copy and original. To varying degrees, the fashion industry categorizes the depth of a relationship between consumption and lifestyle, highlighting the widening discrepancy between layers and social models. This becomes apparent through the diversity of a globalized capitalist society that demonstrates the social levels it segregates: branded products belonging to multi-million dollar groups competing unequally with products resold in the face of a firmly cohesive and structured marginalization relative to the informal market.
Informality is one of the activities that most disseminate the commercialization of copies, sometimes receiving the same disapproval for the products it sells. In order to analyze how the practice of copies is seen, I assess how and to what extent this practice is criminalized under Portuguese law and through a social censorship evidenced by a culture that repudiates such practice, making it inferior. To this end, I examine the implications for the marketing of artifacts forged by procedures recognized as copying. From a qualitative approach, I develop an empirical study through the use of bibliographic and documentary research, mixing them with part of personal reports of autobiographical narratives and excerpts from interviews (open and semi-structured) carried out with employees residing in Portugal. Employees are involved, in some way, with processes that include the practice of copies.
The thesis is divided into two parts: the first examines the negative position directed at the senses offered to the practice of copies, observing their censorship and recognition in the fashion industry; while the second part analyzes the paths taken by copies in the informal market, highlighting the statement of the interviewed employees and an observation of public places. In these two parts, I emphasize that the influence of governments and large fashion corporations in the various sectors of social life concentrates efforts in making the marginalization of imitated products of brands of symbolic value in the financial market recognized. Counterfeit products resist the sanctions imposed on them, relegating them to marginalized spaces, by hindering their circulation. They resist because there are still those who consume them.
Josiany Oenning Favoreto
Recognition of a Doctorate Diploma in Textile Engineering, issued by the Doctoral Program of Textile Engineering at the University of Minho, Guimarães, Portugal, 2019. Scholarship from the Araucária Foundation to Support Scientific and Technological Development, FAADCT / PR, Brazil
Revalidation Date: 03 de março de 2020.
Advisor: Joana Luisa Ferreira Lourenço Cunha
The growing discussion around the theme related to Social Innovation, at the level of the various areas of knowledge, has become an imperative in view of the current demands arising from problems faced by society, since it proposes to offer innovative solutions and services, motivated for the fulfillment of goals and social needs.
Social Innovation is presented by the authors as a relatively open process, resulting from a creative aggregation of ideas inspired by multiple sources. The innovation tools follow this same context, recombining elements and experimenting with processes. For its part, Design has been increasingly engaged with the objective of achieving these goals and, with this aim, it addresses fundamental concepts around ideas shared among social actors.
The convergence of these two areas is the starting point for the development of this research project, which focused on the study of actors who made up a network of sharing and co-production, within the clothing sector. To that end, it was necessary to first list the motivations of each actor, using a methodology that united them, emphasizing both the common and the individual points. Based on these motivations, the next step consisted of deepening knowledge about the essential characteristics of one of the actors belonging to the network, the NGO Associação Cristã de Mulheres In Casa de Talentos. The information collected allowed us to see what activities the group carries out daily, the way in which remuneration for work is generated and the degree of knowledge in the areas of development of clothing products, fabrics, modeling techniques, sewing and crafts.
Based on these surveys, an action plan for training was created in order to provide a moment of learning and provide new knowledge in the areas of greatest interest, respecting and enhancing the individual capacities of each of the collaborators. The plan also aimed at the application of these individual capacities in the following stages of the research project, aiming at improving job opportunities and income generation. The stage following the preparation of the training plan consisted of applying these potentialized capacities in the development of collaborative work, which involved, in addition to the NGO, two other actors in the network: the Vale da Seda Institute and a volunteer designer specializing in the development of clothing products made of silk textiles. The co-creation and co-production methodologies were explored with a view to making six garments, with fabrics with silk fiber in their composition. The technique of crochet on a silk thread was also explored for the creation of Paraná Paraná® modules, used in the creative complement of the pieces.
These were subsequently selected and exhibited in fashion shows at the event ID Fashion, edition 2017, in the city of Curitiba, in the state of Paraná. Slow Design was studied and prospected in this collaborative context, valuing the concepts about the system on a local scale, artisanal labor and generation of know-how for the development of products and services. Finally, the final stage of the research project brought together, in conjunction with the NGO, a new actor from the network, namely another volunteer designer, who has experience in the development of clothing products for a plus size audience. This public in question was selected to be the target of the collective brand built for the NGO. The Design Thinking methodology was applied, and the steps of this process were detailed one by one, demonstrating the direction for the construction of an autonomous systemic thinking among the collaborating women and the results obtained. In a final phase, all results were discussed step by step, emphasizing the importance that the collaboration of each actor assumes, as well as the gains generated with the applied methodologies and the positive results in terms of job and income generation achieved by NGO.
Germana Maria Fontenelle Bezerra
Recognition of a Doctorate Diploma in Fashion Design, issued by the Doctoral Program in Fashion Design at the University of Minho, Guimarães, Portugal, 2019.
Revalidation Date: 04 de março de 2020.
Advisor: Miguel Ângelo Fernandes Carvalho
Being able to study fashion design in the children’s universe is something charming, however, very delicate and complex! At birth, any human being, regardless of sex, religion, race, social class, is dressed, regardless of the meaning that this garment represents, whether for protection, modesty or adornment, therefore, the relationship with the body is a constant in our lives , from the day of birth to death, clothing is considered a basic necessity. Children’s fashion needs more in-depth studies on the most appropriate clothing, which responds to the daily needs of children at different ages, to their growth peaks, considering their dimension and shape.
Starting from the concern with the comfort, wearability, usability and safety of children’s clothing, and from the perception of the high anthropometric and ergonomic ignorance on the part of the children’s clothing industry, the desire arises to study this target audience, looking for solutions for a better adaptation of the clothing to your body.
The main objective of this work is to develop an anthropometric and ergonomic study of Portuguese children between the ages of four and nine, of both sexes, using the body scanner 3D technological resource, in order to develop a mold block modeling methodology base of the body, starting from the construction of a new table of measures, and knowledge of the main shapes of the body in this age group, proposing a new methodology for the design of children’s clothing.
To achieve this goal, the study started from a bibliographic review on child development in this age group, children’s clothing, anthropometry, clothing ergonomics, modeling methodologies, children’s fashion market in Portugal, involving direct contact with entrepreneurs, designers and model makers from Portuguese brands. Subsequently, anthropometric data were collected from children belonging to the target population in schools in the Northern Region of Portugal, using the 3D Kinect Body Imaging (KBI) body digitization system.
The initial universe of the study involved approximately seven hundred children aged two to ten years. The convenience sample was defined with three hundred and fourteen children. Through a descriptive analysis of the data, by analysis of clusters, three main groups of standard measures were identified, and from them a new table of measures was elaborated with the main anthropometric measures. Through the quantitative data of the measurement tables, the knowledge of their 3D body shapes, and the experience they had with the children during the study, a new mannequin mannequin in intermediate size was developed together with an industrial mannequin company and developed a new one. children’s three-dimensional modeling methodology. The construction of the bases for the blouse, skirt, and long pants molds obtained in the moulage process were planned to be prototyped and validated both on the new standard mannequin and on the body of Portuguese children, at all ages of the study.
The development and validation of this children’s fashion design methodology, the result of this study, will serve as a basis for the children’s clothing industry that intends to address the Portuguese market, enabling it with the necessary knowledge to create collections that effectively respond to the characteristics and needs children, through a fashion with comfortable, ergonomic design and wearability, adding value to the design of children’s fashion. Also as a contribution to Universities and Schools of fashion education in general, in their courses in fashion design, serving as a reference and a new look at the teaching of children’s fashion, and in particular in the teaching of children’s clothing modeling.
Rochelne Bezerra de Menezes Gonçalves Barboza
Recognition of a Master’s Degree in Design and Marketing, issued by the University of Minho (UMinho), Portugal, 2016.
Revalidation Date: 04 de março de 2020.
Advisor: Miguel Ângelo Fernandes Carvalho
Of the human chromosopathies, Down’s Syndrome is the most frequent. Social problems run through the sphere of prejudices, myths and exclusions. Social inclusion has been the subject of several studies and in this perspective, the main objective of this work is to contribute to a greater social inclusion of people with Down Syndrome, through a study of anthropometric characterization of their standard body, carried out with the technology of digitization 3D body scanner (Body Scanner 3D) and the development of inclusive clothing, adapted to the special needs of the public in question, in order to promote anthropometric and ergonomic aspects of shape, comfort and aesthetics, contributing to the increase in quality of life, self esteem and security, in order to share life in society.
The results obtained through the measurement tables provided by the Body Scanner 3D system allowed the identification of the shape of the bodies of the studied sample, as well as the variables of their measurements. Based on this information, the study ends with the development and validation of optimized prototypes of inclusive clothing.
Request for the Recognition of a Doctorate Diploma in Textile Engineering, issued by the School of Engineering of the University of Minho, Portugal, 2018.
Revalidation Date: 22 de outubro de 2020.
Advisor: Miguel Angelo Fernandes Carvalho
In Portugal, as in many other countries, the number of overweight and obese children has been growing. However, the clothing industry focused on this segment is not prepared to offer them products that are appropriate to their body shape and measurements, since the standard measurement tables used in the production of clothing are based on the average measurements of the population, not considering so its characteristics. Despite the existence of some anthropometric studies in the country that involve the participation of overweight and obese children, they are more frequent in the health area, and these measures are not valid or sufficient for the development of children’s clothing.
The existing anthropometric studies with the possibility of application in the clothing development process mainly target the adult population, and it is not possible to find anthropometric studies in Portugal specifically aimed at the clothing of overweight and obese children. On the other hand, studies focusing on children’s clothing in general focus more on the area of product design and not on the clothing modeling process. Thus, this research has as main objective to develop tables of standard measures for the development of children’s clothing directed to overweight and obese children, adequate to their anthropometric and ergonomic needs.
The investigation started from an exploratory study, using the literature review, the survey of the market and the application of interviews, and continued with the collection of anthropometric data from the target population using 3D body scanning technology (using the KBI- Kinect Body Imaging) and data processing, analysis and validation. To this end, an anthropometric study was developed in three cities in the North of Portugal: Braga, Guimarães and Vila Nova de Famalicão. The sample was of convenience and involved 816 children, of both genders, between two and twelve years of age. The final sample was (n = 205) children, corresponding to 58.54% (n = 120) males and 41.46% (n = 85) females, between five and twelve years old, with overweight and obesity.
The quantitative data (body measurements) and qualitative data (body images, interviews) made it possible to understand their measurements and body shape, as well as to understand their anthropometric and ergonomic needs and, in this way, it was possible to develop new standard measurement tables, suitable for this growing child segment. As a result, the clothing industry will be able to offer clothing products with the fit and comfort appropriate to these children’s bodies.
Rosimeiri Naomi Nagamatsu
Recognition of a Doctorate Diploma in Textile Engineering, issued by the School of Engineering, Campus Azurém, of the University of Minho, in Guimarães, Portugal. 2020.
Revalidation Date: 22 de outubro de 2020.
Advisor: Maria José Araújo Marques Abreu
The microenvironment of the clothing is the space between the clothing and the skin, being related to the heat and the contact of the clothing with the skin. Many researchers research the relationship between skin and clothing with a view to the total comfort of this microenvironment. The total comfort of clothing is classified into 4 basic groups, namely thermo-physiological comfort, sensory comfort, psychological comfort and ergonomic comfort.
Thus, the objective of this thesis is to evaluate the sensory and thermo-physiological comfort of textile samples and sports caps through Quantitative Descriptive Analysis and tests on use, establishing an understanding of their comfort characteristics.
The methodological procedures were based on two main methods: the objective methodology, adapted from sensory analysis standards used by the food and cosmetics industries, to assess the tactile sensory comfort of textile samples and sports caps, carried out in Brazil; and the subjective method, where the comfort of the sports cap is evaluated by two groups of 10 users through tests of use, one in Portugal, in a controlled climate environment, and another in Brazil, in an external environment.
With the objective method it was possible to: develop the Brazilian textile lexicon and compare it with the French and Portuguese lexicons; select and train a Brazilian textile tactile sensory panel; and make the tactile sensory evaluation in textile samples and sports caps through Quantitative Descriptive Analysis. With the subjective method, the sensations of general comfort, temperature, humidity and the pressure that the samples of sports caps exert on the wearer’s head were evaluated through tests of use.
As a result of the objective assessment, it was possible to notice that the panel classified textile samples and caps samples in a similar way. Regarding the subjective evaluation, despite not showing significant differences between the estimated averages and the data obtained in a controlled climate environment, it was possible to group the caps by type of model and, in some attributes, the samples made with 100% cotton fabrics presented best performance.